A Day of Walking, Seeing, Eating & Drinking

East, City, Borough & Greenwich.

All in the same area (City & East): By starting at St. Paul’s Cathedral, walk across the “wobbly bridge” (isn’t wobbly any more – pictured above) to the Tate Modern (www.tate.org.uk). You can walk from our flat, takes 40 mins at a decent clip, or take the 15 bus from outside St. Anne’s Church. The bridge was designed by Norman Foster (who also designed the atrium in the National Gallery in DC). It was opened in 2000 but then closed for three years, as they addressed a design fault. The bridge swayed in a way that promoted sympathetic rhythm in the people walking across it, which made it sway more and cause it to be closed the day it opened.

The Tate is built in a repurposed power station that closed in 1982. It’s one of my favorite galleries of all the many I have visited. The turbine hall is massive, compelling even when empty and such a superb surround for the likes of Louise Bourgeois or Anish Kapoor. They have recently opened up the tanks that were previously used to store oil when the gallery was a power station. These huge circular spaces in the foundations of the Blavatnik Building have kept their rough, industrial feel to now house new art. No longer generating electricity, the Tanks generate ideas, creative energy and new possibilities for artists and audiences. These raw, industrial, subterranean spaces, each measuring over thirty metres across and seven metres high are the world’s first museum galleries permanently dedicated to exhibiting live art, performance, installation and film.

From the Tate you can walk to Borough (and Borough Market), along the south bank of the river. Passing the Globe Theatre (www.shakespearesglobe.com), The Clink and remains of Winchester Palace.

The Clink was a notorious prison in that operated from the 12th century until about 1750. It was a “debtors” and “whores” prison and was part of Winchester Palace. The name is likely onomatopoeic and was the sound made as the blacksmith hammered closed the shackles. Right next to the market is Southwark Cathedral. There has been a church here since 1080. The present building retains basic form of the Gothic structure built between 1220 and 1420. John Harvard (Harvard University) was born in Southwark in 1607, a butcher's son, and was baptized in the church. The Chard is seen the background. From there you can walk down Tooley Street to Tower Bridge (www.towerbridge.org.uk). Oh, that reminds me, there is an incredible restaurant at the end of Tooley Street – Restaurant Story is expensive but stunning (www.restaurantstory.co.uk). Should you walk over the bridge to the north bank, you will see the Tower of London (www.hrp.org.uk). (See south section for restaurants in this area.)

Across from the Tower, hidden next to Tower Bridge Tube is part of the old Roman Wall that surrounded London from about 50 AD. The London Wall was the defensive structure built by the Romans to protect early Londinium from the wild British natives since the new town was a strategically important port, due to easy access to the sea. Londinium, the original Roman name, is very likely why we Londoners still pronounce London as: Lun-dun and not Lon-don.

A relatively short walk back towards St Paul’s, along Canon Street and you will find more Roman remains (londonmithraeum.com): The Mithraeum. The Temple of Mithras, originally constructed around AD 240, was first discovered in 1954 during the excavation of a World War II bomb site. Today, seven metres below modern street level, the London Mithraeum will change the way we encounter archaeology, offering visitors an immersive experience and bringing the bustling world of Roman Londinium to life by unlocking the stories behind the city’s first Londoners. It stands on one of the richest archaeological sites in London. Much was destroyed by the excavations of deep basements of later buildings, but where the archaeological layer survived, the soggy ground led to startling preservation, including hundreds of wooden tablets faintly preserving the oldest handwritten documents ever found in Britain, from the first years after the Roman invasion, including the first recorded use of the world Londinium. (You could also start your walk here and head to St Paul’s, The Tate, The Globe etc)

As an aside, the only time London has been raised to the ground was by a woman Britain: Boudicca, Queen of the Iceni. In a nutshell, the Romans promised her much but instead took and raped her daughters. She charged on London with her tribe and raised it to the ground with fire. There is still a line of red ash that marks this event and a statue to her stands facing Parliament on Westminster Bridge. The longer version: Boudicca, or Boadicea as she was known to the Romans, was the wife of Prasutagus, ruler of the Iceni tribe, who occupied roughly what is now Norfolk. Boudica was described by contemporaries as tall with flowing red hair below her waist. She was also said to have had a harsh voice and piercing glare, and wore a large golden neck ring, a multi coloured tunic, and a thick cloak fastened by a brooch.

After the Roman conquest of southern England in 43 A.D., Boudicca's husband Prastagus ruled over the territories of the Iceni as an independent vassal of Rome. The Roman procedure at the time was that when a vassal king died the Romans took over the area. On his death in around 59 A.D., Prasutagus tried to side-step this by bequeathing his lands jointly to his daughters and the Roman Emperor, however the lands of the Icceni were annexed to Rome and when Boudica protested she was flogged, her daughters were raped and the Romans seized the wealth of many of the Iceni. Boudica and the Iceni, in alliance with the Trinovantes and other neighbouring tribes, rose in revolt against the rule of Rome.

They first marched on the Roman colony of Camulodunum (Colchester). The Britons besieged the temple to the former emperor Claudius for two days, regarded by the local native population as a citadel of everlasting tyranny, it finally fell after which the city was methodically demolished. Hearing news of the uprising, Romans began to flee Londinium (London). Boudicca and the rebels burned it to the ground, no prisoners were taken and no mercy was shown, all those left within the city were slaughtered. Modern archaeology has revealed a thick red layer of burnt debris covering coins and pottery dating before AD 60 within the bounds of Roman Londinium. Skulls dating from the Roman-era unearthed in the Walbrook (site of The Mithraeum) in 2013 were potentially linked to victims of the rebels. The victorious rebels then turned on Verulamium (St Albans), a city largely populated by Britons who had cooperated with the Romans, which was also destroyed. In the three settlements destroyed, between seventy and eighty thousand people are said to have been killed. Boudicca proudly addressed her army from her war chariot, stating that their cause was just, and the gods were on their side. She stressed that she, a woman, was resolved to win or die rather than live in slavery to the Romans (Mithraeum pictured left).

Further East

Further over east: The Thames Barrier is worth checking out, even if only by boat. These are enormous gates, which can be raised in case of exceptionally high tide to save central London from floods, and it is a marvel of construction, but it is now nearing insufficient to keep the high water out 30 years later.  

Foot Tunnel

Greenwich Foot Tunnel (East London), taking you to Greenwich: The tunnel took four years to build and was opened in 1902. The tunnel replaced an expensive and sometimes unreliable ferry service and was intended to allow workers living on the south side of the Thames to reach their workplaces in the London docks and shipyards then situated around the Isle of Dogs. To get there you would need to take the Docklands Light Railway (DLR www.tfl.gov.uk). It’s a driverless train system that runs in the east. You would need a DLR train heading to Lewisham and you’d get off at Island Gardens. On your way back from Greenwich, you can take the DLR back across the river, without having to walk back through the tunnel.

Maritime Museum.

Or you can walk from the flat, following the Thames Path. Walking takes 40 mins, for those with a brisk step. In Greenwich there’s plenty to look at (www.visitgreenwich.org.uk): National Maritime Museum, Queen’s House, the Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich Market and Cutty Sark (www.rmg.co.ukcuttysark). The view across London from the Royal Observatory (where Greenwich Mean Time is set) in Greenwich Park is fab. Buenos Aires Café is well worth stopping in for lunch; it’s at 15 Nelson Road. 

You could also take the Thames Clipper back from Greenwich, catching it at Greenwich Pier. For home, get off at Canary Wharf Pier; for the Tate Modern (Globe and Borough), get off at Bankside. The route to the Tate passes under Tower Bridge, and past Traitors Gate, through which Anne Boleyn was taken to be executed, among many (www.thamesclippers.com).

Wilton’s Music Hall

Wilton’s Music Hall, Shadwell, (www.wiltons.org.uk): This is not too far from Tower Bridge, but I’d suggest a venture over if there’s something on that you fancy seeing. It’s London’s oldest music hall and really feels that way. They often hold free live jazz nights in the tiny bar. Wilton’s Music Hall’s crumbling interior beautifully evokes an otherwise vanished past. It’s rather excellent, I must say.  Pictured left.

Brick Lane Market.

Brick Lane Market: From posh pork to second-hand cameras (30-40 minute walk from the flat). The best day to visit Brick Lane market is on Sundays, though the shops and restaurants are open every day. On Sundays the streets are lined with people hawking their second-hand wares, lots of artisan and plenty of food stalls. There are some good bargains to be had if you look hard enough. Brick Lane Market is pure East End London, which means Jewish bagel shops, Bangladeshi curry houses, Indian sari silks – and Cockneys crying out their wares. This chaotic, bustling market is halfway between jewel and junk heap. It attracts lots of young Londoners, in search of second-hand furniture, unusual clothes and bits of this-and-that. The joy of this market is that you never know what you'll find, anything from cheap leather clothes and old magazines to Art Deco furniture – with a lot of old junk in between. 

Whitechapel Gallery.

Whitechapel High Street and the start of Brick Lane (www.whitechapelgallery.org): This is an excellent local gallery, showcasing mould-breaking contemporary art. Runs lots of workshops too. Founded in 1901 to “bring great art to the people of the East End of London,” the Whitechapel Gallery occupies a distinctive Arts and Crafts building designed by Charles Harrison Townsend. It has no permanent collection, but a rolling programme of several exhibitions each year. The programme has ranged from showcasing art from Africa, India and Latin America to premiering emerging figures such as Picasso, Mark Rothko and Jackson Pollock. The gallery holds a triennial open submission competition, which has recently been relaunched as The London Open. Rachel Whiteread's beautiful commission for the facade of the building, Tree of Life, created with support from the Art Fund, was unveiled in June 2012. The artist's first permanent public commission in the UK, it features clusters of leaves, cast in bronze and plated in gold leaf, emblazoning the gallery's facade with shimmering foliage. The work was inspired by both the Tree of Life, an Arts and Crafts motif adorning the gallery's towers, and “Hackney weed,” the urban plants that grow on buildings in the area.

Because you can: Moo Canoe (www.moocanoes.com): Hire a kayak or canoe and explore the canals around our flat. Paddle outside our living room window with the coots, swans and moorhens.

Because you can

Moo Canoe.

Because you can: Moo Canoe (www.moocanoes.com): Hire a kayak or canoe and explore the canals around our flat. Paddle outside our living room window with the coots, swans and moorhens.